Feels like a Smiths kind of day. Enjoy.

October

Fun weekend with beautiful conditions and tiny waves. Water was clear, and I'm still wearing a spring suit in late October. I love fall.

Malibu by Night

Took this on the way home from Malibu the other night. Completely unedited. Really want to get into taking pictures more.

merry christmas

surf mat riding

Just another way to enjoy riding waves. The mats are super fun, if not a little difficult to get dialed. I've got two from Paul Gross, who among other things surfing related, makes mats under the 4th Gear Flyer name. I've got a UDT and a roundtail tracker. Both super fun in all kinds of waves.

We took them to Maui recently, and Britt, who has surfed once in her life, had a blast taking them out in some small reef break and catching some really long rides. They're great for travelling as they take up almost no space, and only require some fins(or not, if the waves are small you can catch them without fins). And they really do put a giant smile on your face when you just take off flying down the line.

winter blues

School and work are done, finally. Waves are here, finally. Conditions are nice, finally. It's all lining up perfectly. Except I am sick as a dog. Praying the swells continue to come.

Lunar Eclipse

I still remember him, bringing the thick chunk of dark glass over that afternoon. We stood in the street, and held the glass up, staring at the sun as it was eclipsed by the moon. He used to love teaching us about the wonders of this world, especially what goes on up in the sky.

So this morning I woke up in the dark, and headed down to the beach. As I got in the car, the moon was just starting to catch the Earth's shadow. I sat in the freezing cold on the beach and watched the moon as it went from white, slowly fading into orange as it dropped further and further. Eventually the shadow covered the entire moon, and it glowed a beautiful, deep orange. I watched it in the quiet, with nothing but little ripples in the water and waves crashing off in the distance. As it sunk further it became harder to see, so I threw on my wetsuit and paddled out well before the sun. The dolphins were surfing, there were fun waves, and I had the ocean to myself. I watched a beautiful sunrise, had some waves, and got to enjoy something that money can't buy. It was as perfect as mornings get, and I feel lucky to have been there.

Thanks Grandad.