Grandad

This is a picture of my grandad with his family. He's the little one in the middle. Mallow, Cork, Ireland. I miss him.

Feels like a Smiths kind of day. Enjoy.

October

Fun weekend with beautiful conditions and tiny waves. Water was clear, and I'm still wearing a spring suit in late October. I love fall.

Malibu by Night

Took this on the way home from Malibu the other night. Completely unedited. Really want to get into taking pictures more.

merry christmas

surf mat riding

Just another way to enjoy riding waves. The mats are super fun, if not a little difficult to get dialed. I've got two from Paul Gross, who among other things surfing related, makes mats under the 4th Gear Flyer name. I've got a UDT and a roundtail tracker. Both super fun in all kinds of waves.

We took them to Maui recently, and Britt, who has surfed once in her life, had a blast taking them out in some small reef break and catching some really long rides. They're great for travelling as they take up almost no space, and only require some fins(or not, if the waves are small you can catch them without fins). And they really do put a giant smile on your face when you just take off flying down the line.

winter blues

School and work are done, finally. Waves are here, finally. Conditions are nice, finally. It's all lining up perfectly. Except I am sick as a dog. Praying the swells continue to come.